I can’t change this plug. How to open it while keeping it’s shape?

Question

There’s 0.2ꭥ between this green and this red wire which is almost a short circuit (the ecu confirms it). The shape below is because of the heat of the engine causing the plastic to melt
A good knock sensor needs to be a new knock sensor of a brand a repair shop would sell otherwise the car isn’t insured so which results in costing over 300€. And here’s a compatible one :
This is likely due a small contact between the 2 metal part of the plug inside (which should be fixed by inserting a small piece of paper between them). The problem I don’t know how to open it while being able to plug it inside the knock sensor again after.

This part is not sold on retail. Even for a repair shop. And local scrapeyards aren’t selling it there. So the only way to fix the problem is to keep this plug.
What would be the step by step detail for inserting a small piece inside preventing the short circuit while still ensuring it will stay plugged whatever the road is ? I mean a creative solution for opening it without breaking it too much.

Answer 1

Here is the way I repaired my vacuum cleaner polarized power cord moulded nylon and rubber plug that needed repair.
A replacement (from Sweden - I'm in Quebec, Canada) was over $110 plus 15% provincial sales tax.

1. Cut or break the plug in half to expose the interior of the plug.
2. Make the repair(s) you want.
3. Test the plug to see if it works.
4. Epoxy the original plug parts together.
   Ensure that the epoxy you use does not conduct electricity, can withstand the heat from the engine block, and is a good bond for the kind of plastic used for the plug.

Tip: Before you work on the only plug you have, increase your skill and knowledge with other kinds of plugs and parts for practice.

Note: Despite your personal experience, Paper is not an electrical insulator so much as a simple physical separation. Any moisture will turn paper insulation into a good electrical conductor. Your dry laptop battery sitting in your home is not a good comparison for the hostile environment of a working internal-combustion engine. Just saying.

Good Luck.

Answer 2

Plugs like that are usually molded single piece items, the wires are fitted by having a springy tab sticking out of the connector end of the wire. As the connector end is pushed into the plastic plug the tabs spring out and grip the plastic, preventing it from coming back out. You can remove them again if you can identify where they are and push a fine flat bladed screwdriver down the back (where the wire goes in) of the plug, aiming to fold the spring tab flat so it is no longer against the plastic

Take a look at this picture of a molex connector in component form, for a better idea of what I mean:

This picture features 4 connectors (two male pins, two female pins) and is intended to allow 2 wires to be connected and disconnected. The connectors are paired up for shipping but in use would be detached from the metal bar that has a rectangle and two circular holes in. They would then be crimped onto the end of a wire, and then those two small metal pins sticking-out (creating a Y shape) are the tabs that hold the connector into the plastic block. Removing this connector from the block again requires the pins to be folded flat against the body of the connector, the connector slid out, and then the pins folding out so they will grip when reinserted

All that said, I strongly recommend you consider replacing your entire plug and socket with something that IS available in your country. The plug you've pictured SHOULD be available as it will have been used on countless different makes and models of car. See if it has any manufacturer name on (not necessarily the brand of your car)

Edit update:

I'm not entirely sure why you're posting on lifehacks, as you've just added information to your question that seems to imply that anyone jury-rigging any kind of thing that is not an original car part as approved by the manufacturer will instantly void their insurance (yet you've also commented to imply that a home-made repair has been carried out on your car before - confusing; have you been driving uninsured all this time)..

That said, when i recommended "making a plug" - spray the socket full of some lubricant, attach two individual wire spade connectors to the ends of the wires, then push them onto the pins inside the socket, fill the entire socket with silicone sealant (like what you put round your bath) and let it set - you'll now have a new plug, molded to the shape of the old, with two connected non-shorted wires embedded in the cured silicone. Old socket, new plug. The lubricant spray should stop the silicone sticking to the socket for easier removal

Answer 3

You might have to change both the receptacle and the plug with something similar and compatible.

Before you go to that extreme, if you can't by a new replacement, buy a used one from a junkyard or recycling operation as the replacement. You might have to buy more than just the plug; but, if the used assembly includes the plug, you're good to go.

If that doesn't work you'll be faced with making a mould of the plug and working to refurbish the one you have. Possibly, 3D printing might be the way to go at this point.

Paper is not an electrical insulator so you'll get no joy from that solution.

If local centres don't have the part, you'll have better luck broadening your search until you locate one.

As a hack, how much does a used engine (reclaimed from a collision) cost? After you get the part you want resell the engine parts you don't want to a junk yard.

Also, communications between junk yards is pretty good. $weeten the request to your junk yard and let them find one for you online by sku/part number. (I bought half a car to get the rear hatch assembly for a station wagon and returned the unwanted parts for a partial refund as the "dealer" didn't want to expend the labour for my part; but, gladly bought back the rest of the hatch.)

Answer 4

If it were mine, I'd be tempted to take this as a good reason to trade in the car.

Seriously, if you have to buy a major wiring harness to replace a connector like this, which is positioned so engine heat can degrade it, the cost to repair is something best passed on to a used car dealer (because they wouldn't be the least hesitant to pass a similar defect on to you). I'd also avoid buying the same brand as a replacement.

Failing that, you might see if you can buy insulated slip-on terminals that you can crimp onto the wires, and that will fit the terminals the melted plug connects to. You'd have two terminals instead of a one-piece latch-in connector, but electrically, it should be the same.

Answer 5

If you cannot replace the plug or the harness it's attached to, you will have to operate on the plug to access the components you feel are problematic.

There's some kind of snap clip on the top. Stay away from it. If you break that, you will lose the ability to hold the plug inside the receptacle. (Is this correct? Please verify. You might also edit into your question a picture of the receptacle for a better analysis.)

All of the ridges and flanges on the part are for alignment, access (to grip it), or for part integrity (strength against splitting).

Disclaimer and notice. Anything you do to this plug now will compromise the part. It might fail before, during, or immediately after your "repair." Let's assume that you are a careful and skilled worker and that you have the knowledge and proper tools to do what I'm going to suggest.

Now, here we go.

1. Flip the plug over and work on the bottom of the part.
2. Carefully drill an access hole where you suspect the "short circuit" has occurred to expose the area for work. Don't drill through the plug. You only want access as far as the conductors. Make the smallest shallow hole you can since you can always make the hole bigger.
3. Separate the conductors physically and put a heat-resistant physical separation between the conductors.
4. Test the plug's conductivity.
5. Reseal the access hole with a specific material best-suited for the environment. This will probably be some kind of epoxy. Sugru is a moldable self-curing material but is only suitable for low voltage insulation - it is suitable for the voltage but you will have to do research to ensure what you finally use will remain stable for your application.
6. Put the part into service.
7. As soon as possible, find a replacement using the internet, by contacting the OEM supplier (research), continuing to scavenge used/damaged reclamation locations.

Work harder improve negotiating with people around you who have a rigid mind-set. Learn to be more flexible by ignoring negative attitudes. Lose the "can't," "won't," "don't," "refuse," "impossible," and "only" terminology that pervades your question and comments. Get the opinions of knowledgeable people. B+ (Be Positive ! ! !)

This will be my last attempt at trying to answer this question — There's my bus. Gotta go!

Good Luck!